Sewing machine and method



May 11, 1937. M. BLUMENKRANTZ SEWING MACHINE AND METHOD Filed July 11, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet l m m ivy I. T N m -m V T N T 1 .A My B @L ww y 1937- "M. BLUMENKRANTZ SEWING MACHINE AND METHOD Filed July 11, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR M B W, W M

ATTORN y 1937- M. BLUMENKRANTZ SEWING MACHINE AND METHOD Filed July 1-1. 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR MBW,

M Y J y 1937- M. BLUMENKRANTZ SEWING MACHINE AND METHOD Filed July 11, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR .4 ATTORN E Patented May 11, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE AND METHOD Max Blumenkrantz, New York, N. Y. Application July 11, 1935, Serial No. 30,807

13 Claims. (01. 112-2) In attaching such slide fasteners to garments it is advantageous to protect the inner side of the slide fastener by a flap orliner. The present invention provides a method and machine whereby the slide fastener and the'liner canbe attached to a garment simultaneously in a single passage through a special sewing machine.

While a preferred form ,of the invention is disclosed herein, it will beclear that various changes may be made in the structure without departing from the spiritfoffthe invention as hereinafter set forth and claimed. f "In the drawings:

Fig.

the present invention. E Fig. 2 is "a rearfvielw trated in Fig. '1. 1

Fig. 3 is afront levationjshowing'part of a sewing machinewith the speciala'tta'chments shape and is attached to the garment by the double row of stitching l6. By properly guiding and positioning the liner the joint of the tube lies between the two rows of stitching forming the seam l6 and is therefore completely covered and concealed.

g v Method Having thus described'the structure resulting from ,the' operation or the invention; I will now explain the method of carrying out the invention. The". method consists primarily in passing the partof th'e garment throughasewing machine, and simultaneously passing the slide fastener' and the, linenlTthrough the machine.

' Suitable guides ar provided to' assemble the parts and bring them to the proper positions before the needles of the sewing machine. While the parts are ipassi'ng'through' the sewing ma- Chine, one side of the liner H, "which is to be I the free. side in the finished article, is held away y l frorh'the needles so that it is not stitched to the 1 is a front v1ew partly broken away; a v

showing a liner. as-,.attached to a garment In fli m g g t 1s pieferablejo "use 'a double'row or stitching'on each side of of the-structure ill-usjthe opening I I, and while this gives thepreferred product; it A is 'possible' to carryout the inethod "with one or more" rows of "stitching on: each side o ifgthejopeping'if desired.

The "rnaim'part 'of the sewing machine; that is, the mechanism for formingthe' stitches and feeding-the material iswell-known in the art and is therefore not illustrated and described in t mer j (j cleta ilf hebed plateof thesewing-machine is 593 91 Ih 1 is indicated by the'refei'ence character-J8, and

. 1 i a ew n ;9 g- 3. 'the'frontapron bythe reference character l9.

' Referrmgto h d m sm parhcularlynhe some fiz d r ifl;

* '-The f first -.speci-al-; attachment for machine is the guide for the -part'siof: thef'islides fastener and the"garment;whichdszclearlysshown in Figs. "4 and 51' This' attachment includes atplate 2o seeured-to the tflop-of the bed plateflil aii'd which carries .*upright-' "-siipports., it to 'which are at tached the tables 2 2 .Whi'h incline, dow'nwardly owar'd the; needles. The inner edge 'of eaoh of thesei 'iriclinedntables carries .a: curved hem. guide 23 which acts to turn --over-=a. hem :onvthe sides lof; the" shirt;-aloiigcthe-opehing "zl'lwinthe wellknown: manner: The-ftables 22 are .rad-justably amounted sothat,thedistanoeibetween: them .can

be varied to produce the desired width of opening in the shirt material.

used'in carrying"outtheinvention. Fig. 4 is asectionon lineh-t of 3. Fig. 5 is-a-plan viewrpartly broken awayfof the arrangement shown in'l ig."3; V :Fig'. -6 is a section on'line (i -6 of Fig.4.

Fig. '7 is apartial pl a nfview'ofthe'bed plate reference numeral 1H) iridicate'spart 'of'a garment 45mm asa shirtffrontQ'andfH 'is a slit}: or: opening '5 U formedinlthe garment. I 'I' he" "slide"; fastener is attachedto'opposite sidesof "opening to pros; "vide easy "means for opening and easin 'the? opening irfthefwell -j-know manneqv-rammstrips l2 carry 'fastener e'ler'nents hich are opened? and closed by aslidelock Mi} Oneof these fabric strips l2 is' at ta he'd by a tloiibl'e-row of stitches? .l 5, to one side f the peningi ansthe d thefi-= fabric fstrip l2 'isa ache'd by afidouble row of 50 stitches it' to 'theiother side of the opening? In". order'to prevent-contact. of *the slide ffa'se ten'er with the -underclothingtof theperson wear-- ing the shirt, a flap or liner I1 is attached on one side only of the opening. This liner is formed from a fiat piece of material folded to tubular This attachment also carries the chute 24 for guiding the slide fastener. This chute has a bottom 25 that is inclined slightly and brings the slide fastener to the level of the bed plate just before reaching the needles. The chute 24 is provided with tapering sides 26, and the Width is such as to receive the assembled slide fastener.

A suitable spring guide finger 21 isfastened over the chute in such a position that its forward bifurcated end engages on opposite sides of the slide fastener, thereby serving to center and guide the slide fastener during its passage to the needles. This spring guide finger is sufficiently yieldable to move upwardly and permit passage of the side lock as the end of the slide fastener passes through the machine.

Guide for liner toward the delivery end by moving the points of the crescent toward each other so that the delivery end 3| has a flattened shape shown in Fig. 8. This delivery end has an opening 32 where the sides of the guide overlap, and to avoid duplication of metal a single septum 33 separates the inner walls of the fabric tube H.

The fabric l1 moves directly from a supply roll into the entrance opening of the guide 28, and as it passes through the guide it is folded into a flattened tube with an overlap on the bottom side adjacent one of the edges, as clearly shown in Fig. 8.

Attached to the upper side of the delivery end of guide 28 is a plate 34 provided with an edge inclined both vertically and horizontally, and the folded liner after merging from guide 28 passes around and over this inclined edge, as shown in Figs. 3, 4 and '7, and is thus presented to the needles in a position with the. overlap uppermost and along the right-hand edge. The liner is kept from moving too far toward the left of Fig. 3 by a curved lip 35 formed on plate 34.

The guide 28 is located below the level of the bed plate l8, and the inclined extension 36 of plate 34 delivers the folded liner to the needles at the level ofthe bed plate, underneath the chute for the zipper, as is clear from Figs. 3 and 4.

Bed plate construction In order to permit assembling the liner on the under side of the zipper and attaching it by stitches along one edge only, a special construction of the bed plate is provided. Needle plates I 8a and [8b are set in the bed plate 3 on each side of a slot 31 in said bed plate and suitably secured by screws therein.

A guard plate 39 extends downwardly from the needle plate l8a along the left-hand side of slot 31.. Beginning at the curved edge 38 and extending rearwardly past the needles and the feeding mechanism. The right-hand forward corner of' right-hand edge passes across the needle plate I81) and is engaged by the needles, as shown in Fig. 6. By thus depressing the left-hand edge of the liner and by providing the guard plate 39, this side of the liner is held free of the needle or other operating mechanism of the sewing machine, while the right-hand edge is engaged by the needles and is stitched to the other parts, as will be more fully explained later on.

Presser foot construction As previously explained, the machine preferably forms four rows of stitching, and is provided with four needles 4| operated by a conventional needle bar 42. A feed dog 43 cooperates with each needle and moves the parts forward in a manner well understood in the art.

A presser foot frame 44 carried by the presser bar 45 has mounted on it two presser feet 46. These presser feet are mounted on the presser foot frame in such a way as to permit them to operate at different levels to compensate for the presence of three layers of liner fabric under the right-hand presser foot.

This compensating action of the presser feet is provided by forming each presser foot in the form of a shoe 41 mounted on a vertical bar 48, and guided for straight vertical movement by lateral guides 49. Pressure is applied from the presser foot frame to the presser feet by an oscillating beam 50, which is pivoted at 5| to the presser foot frame, and at 52 to each of the vertical bars 48. The pivotal connection at 52 is provided by forming the end of beam 50 with a rounded end which engages in a cross slot formed in bar 48, thus permitting lateral play to compensate for angular positions of bar 50. This construction insures equal pressure on both presser feet, even although the right-hand foot is operating at a higher level than the left-hand foot.

In order to prevent the zipper lock from contacting with the needles as it passes through the machine, each of the presser feet is formed at its forward inner edge with a guard plate 53.

Operation In the operation of the machine the folded liner I! is drawn through the guide tube 28 and thence around plate 34 with its forward end under the presser feet and ready to pass under the right-hand needles as shown in Fig. 7. The forward end of the slide fastener is then passed through chute 24 and under spring guide finger 27 to a position with its right-hand fabric strip overlying the liner H, as shown in Fig. 5. The garment part I0 is then placed in position (Fig. 5) with its opening ll over the zipper guide, and the opposite sides of the opening engagedwith the curved hem guide 23 of the inclined tables 22.

After the partsare in the position shown in Fig. 5 the operator lowers the presser foot and runs the machine, causing the four needles to produce four rows of stitches. The two rows 01 stitches IS on the left-hand side (Figs. 6 and 1) pass only through the folded garment edge and the fastener fabric, while the two rows of stitches lion theright-hand side pass in addition through the folded liner.

As the parts-pass through the sewing machine, the garment is passed down over the top of the slide fastener, and the liner is fed up below the slide fastener, as clearly shown in Fig. 4.

As the sewing operation nears completion the slide lock l4 pushes the spring guide finger 21 upwardly and passes thereunder, and as it passes between the needles, is prevented from contact-' the liner fabric is cut off, just in front of the a needle. The free end of the liner fabric thus remains in folded condition ready for attachment to the next piece of work.

I claim:

1. ,The process of sewing a slide fastener and a liner to a garment part having a slitted opening therein which comprises sewing the slide fastener to both sides of the slitted opening and simultaneously sewing the liner to one side only of the slitted opening.

2. The process of sewing a liner and a slide fastener having fabric strips to a garment part having a slitted opening therein which comprises passing the parts through a sewing machine provided with a plurality of needles, running at least one line of stitches along one side of the opening, said stitches extending through the garment, one of the fabric strips of the slide fastener, and one edge of the liner, and simultaneously running at least one line of stitches along the other side of the opening, the last-named stitches extending only through the garment part and the other fabric strip of the slide fastener.

3. The process of sewing a liner and a slide fastener having fabric strips to a garment part having a slitted opening therein which comprises passing the parts through a sewing machine provided with four needles, running a double row of stitches along one side of the slitted opening, said stitches extending through the garment, a fabric strip of the slide fastener, and one edge of the liner and simultaneously running a double row of stitches along the other side of the opening, the last-named stitches extending only through the garment and the' other fabric strip of the slide fastener.

4. The process of sewing a liner and a slide fastener having fabric strips to a garment part having a slitted opening therein which comprises assembling the parts with the slide fastener and the liner coinciding with the slitted opening, the garment part being on one side of the slide fastener and theliner being on the reverse side of the slide fastener, and simultaneously sewing the parts together, the slide fastener being stitched to both sides of the slitted opening and the liner being stitched to one side only of the slitted opening.

5. The process of sewing a slide fastener and a liner to a garment part having a slitted opening therein which comprises folding the liner into tubular form, passing the parts through a sewing machine provided with four needles, while 0 assembling the parts with the slide fastener and the liner coinciding with the slitted opening, the garment being on one side of the slide fastener and the liner being on the reverse side of the slide fastener, running a double row of stitches 3, along one side of the slitted opening, said stitches extending through the garment part, a fabric strip of the slide fastener, and the overlapped edge of the liner, and simultaneously running a double row of stitches along the other side of the slitted opening, the last-named stitches extending only through the garment part and the other fabric strip of the slide fastener.

6. In combination with a sewingmachlne having a plurality of needles, means for guiding a garment .part having a slitted opening so as to produce one line of stitching on each side of said opening, means for guiding a'slide fastener having two fabric strips to a position below the garment part so that each of its fabric strips will be engaged by one of said lines of stitching, and 5 means for guiding a liner to a position below the slide fastener so that the liner will be engaged by said stitching along only one of its edges.

7. In combination with a sewing machine provided with four needles, means for guiding to'said 10 needles a garment part having a slitted opening so as to produce a double row of stitches on one side of said opening and a double row of stitches on the other side of said opening, means for guiding a slide fastener having two fabric strips to '15 a position below the garment part so that each of its fabric strips will be engaged by one of said double rows of stitches, and means for guiding a liner to a position below the slide fastener so that the liner will be engaged by only one of said 20 double rows of stitches.

8. In combination with a sewing machine pro-- vided with four needles, means for guiding to said needles a garment part having a slitted opening, so as to produce a double row of stitches on each 25 side of said opening, means for turning under a hem along each side of said opening, each hem being engaged by one of said rows of stitches, means for guiding a slide fastener having two fabric strips to a position below the garment part 30 so that each of its fabric strips will be engaged by one of said double rows of stitches, means for folding a strip of fiat liner material into tubular form, and means for guiding the folded liner to a position below the slide fastener so that the 3. liner will be engaged by only one of said double rows of stitches.

9. In combination with a sewing machine provided with four needles, means for guiding a slide fastener having two fabric strips past the 40 needles so as to produce a double row of stitches through each of its fabric strips, means for guiding a garment part having a slitted opening to a position facing one side of said slide fastener, means for turning a hem along each side of said opening, said garment guiding means being so disposed as to cause each of said hems to be engaged by one of said double rows of stitches, means for folding a strip of flat liner materialinto tubular form, means for guiding the folded liner to a position facing the side of the slide fastener reverse to that faced by the garment, and means for holding one edge of the liner away from the needles, so that the folded liner will be engaged by only one of said double rows of 5 stitches.

10. In combination, a sewing machine having at least two needles, guiding means to cause a slide fastener having a slide lock to travel between the needles, and guard means to keep the m slide look from contacting with the needles.

11. In combination, a sewing machine having at least two needles, guiding means to cause a slide fastener having interlocking elements and a slide lock to travel between the needles, said 65 guiding means comprising a floor and a resiliently mounted guide finger engaging the slide fastener on each side of the interlocking elements and adapted to lift and permit passage of the slide lock.

12. In combination, a sewing machine having a bed plate formed with a slot running rearwa'rdly from the front'edge thereof, at least one needle on each side of'said slot, means for guiding to said'needles a garment part having. a slit- 75 ted opening so as to produce a row of stitches on each side of said opening, means for guiding a slide fastener having two fabric strips to a position below the garment part so that each of its fabric strips will be engaged by one of said lines of stitching, means for guiding a liner to a position below the slide fastener with one edge extending downwardly through the slot in the bed plate so that the liner will be engaged by- ;0 the stitches along only one of its edges. 

